John Hinners monthly column on kayaking the waters of Pamlico County....

July 8, 2004

Paddling at the Solstice

June brings long, enchanted paddle-evenings shrouded in summer haze without the soggy breath of August.

The dinner dishes are dumped quickly into the sink. Boats and gear are corralled and loaded on carts for pulling down to the creek. Deer flies keep our one free hand busy with the promise of a satisfying kill. And then it’s launch, slide into the cockpit, and paddle out through the tiny evening ripples.

The wind barely whispers through the marsh grasses while redwings’ rusty-gate scolding echoes in the cooling air like out-of-tune vocalists in an old stone church. The paddle’s own song is light and limpid, quietly rejoicing in the medium of life.

Downstream, two mallards preen on Dick and Lois’s floating dock, caring not a whit what gawking paddlers think. Other birds break the evening silence with bits of song, the wood thrush contributing his heavenly melody.

With each paddle stroke, a bouquet of creek odors rises from the water, as from a salty vintage. Subtle reminders of mud, fish, crabs, and more exotic creatures that lie hidden beneath the surface blend with a quick whiff of oil added by a boat long passed.

But what most draws us out at this mystical time is the light. A heavy haze turns the sinking sun to a red so dull it seems like pigment rather than the blazing engine that drives photosynthesis. Its message is clear. The day is over and we’d best head back to the ramp if we want to see to stow the boats.

But we dawdle anyway, because the barred owls are conversing, one on either side of the creek. “Who cooks for you?”, and because this is the South, an occasional, “Who cooks for you all?” A third chimes in and dialog becomes owlish cacophony.

To one in a hurry, so little seems to be happening out here in the fading light, but the slow, silent progress of a craft with a four-thousand-year-old heritage lets us enter into the subtle secrets of an evening on the water, and we are at peace.


Previous "Song Of The Paddle" Columns

•May 2004
•April 2004
•March 2004
•February 2004


John Hinners provides Sea kayak instruction. Learn more at www.songofthepaddle.net
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